Chaska Burgundy Derby with Sportwedge Sole

The derby is the oxford's more relaxed cousin, and the Chaska shows why: its quarters sit on top of the vamp, which leaves an open lacing system that widens as it opens.

Both panels are burgundy, painted calf across one section of the upper and painted full grain across another, so the colour holds steady while the surface changes under it. The sole is a white sportwedge, the loudest decision the shoe makes and the reason it never reads as strictly formal. Every pair is handmade, so small differences between pairs are normal.

This one goes either way. Under a suit and tie it dresses up without complaint; with chinos on a Saturday it looks entirely at home. The white sole keeps the whole thing from turning solemn. It is a shape that has outlived every trend that came for it, and the open throat is what makes it comfortable to keep on all day.