C89 Longwing Blucher in Blackwatch and Brown

One brogue panel on the C89 leaves the toecap and does not stop until it has reached the heel. That single long wing is the whole difference between a longwing blucher and the full brogue it otherwise resembles.

Four materials share this upper: blackwatch sartorial, dark brown box calf, med brown box calf and med brown painted calf. The result is a shoe that shifts tone panel by panel, with the perforation crossing all of it and reading differently on each. A running sole is fitted below. It is built on the Zurigo last, rounded at the toe for the traditional English look. Handmade throughout, so no two pairs come out the same.

The longwing blucher is a classic suited to formal occasions and office wear alike, and this version leans hard toward the second. With this much happening below the ankle, everything above it should stay plain. Grey or brown trousers, one texture at most, and let the shoe do the rest.